Michael Bauer of the San Francisco Chronicle has just reviewed Baker and Banker restaurant in San Francisco. Bauer likes the restaurant, but writes about the wine list:
While I appreciate the International bent of the menu at Baker & Banker, I find it difficult to warm to the wine list. It's as if the restaurant tried to collect every exotic varietal on one compact menu.
Aside from Chardonnay, the most listed varietal is Chenin Blanc and Malvasia, the main grape in a Croatia selection. I'm sure the 2007 Clai Bijele "Sveti Jakov" from Croatia is a hard sell at $74, even if it is a good wine.
The tendency is even more pronounced in the red wines. Among the 33 on the regular list, there are at least five wines using Rhone varietals, and four Gamays. There's also Zweigelt from Austria, Frappato from Sicily and Hondarribi Beltza from the Basque country.
What's actually on this wine list? Take a look:
A Great Wine List!
Amazing! Someone puts together an interesting wine list and gets attacked in the press. The critic doesn't have anything to say against the quality of the wines and how they go with the cuisine....all he can say is that there's too many foreign names and too much weird stuff.
What's behind the attack? Whether it be local boosterism or plain ignorance, it is inexcusable that a major daily puts such weak material into print.
To read the review go to:
Chronicle Review
The Slanted Door is constantly attacked for not having Californian wines. The Baker and Banker list has a lovely mix from various countries and it is still not enough to satify the Chronicle.
Bunch of Idiots!